KK's Surf Kronicles: Summer Iz Here, Even Just For A Day 063013

Surf Report: 2-3 feet

Water: Cool and a few Cold Spots

Atmosphere: Sunny!

Winds: None

Found some free parking on the hill, and the parking lots are full even before 700 AM… so it was a no brainer. I’m amazed that the parking lot gets full so quickly during the summer. I kinda hate it, but at the same time, I guess it’s ok. More people coming out to surf and sharing in the stoke!

I park behind a family that I surfed with yesterday. It’s a double father and daughter combo, so it’s really cute to watch them all wax their surfboards up and paddle out together.

The sun was shining today, and I brought my 3/2, but I opted to stay in boardshorts. I gave Matt a call, and he answered the phone lethargically, saying that he had to help his mom out running errands and so he’ll be missing the surf. Oh well~

I took out my fish because I’ve been riding my Don Kadowaki Rocket shape for a while, and I wanted something new under my feet. The 26^th Street Ohana were out in full force, and since the sun was shining, there were more people wearing spring suits and boardshorts today.

I catch my first wave, a right, and pump down the line. I try not to move so much on the wave now, and let the board ride the wave. The board will ride the wave as she is designed to do, and all I have to do is stay on my feet. I pump all the way down the line casually and kick out.

There are plenty of waves for everyone today. Kim, a 68 year old surfer who has an amazing smile, paddle in to the set of the day on her foamie. She took a huge left from the peak and got all the way to shore.

Mike the Vet took a nice right that I hooted him into all the way to shore.

Mr. Oscar was catching some nice long lefts on his twin fin fish.

Ross was killing it going left and right. There were a lot more open lefts today, but Ross, a goofy footer, loves going vertical on rights. Even if it’s a one turn right, he’ll go right and smash the lip. He continuously smashed, ripped, and lacerated the lip on his backside.

Everyone was catching waves. There was no shortage of waves this day.

I almost ran over the dad of the aforementioned father-daughter combo that I parked behind. I was going on a left and saw him on the inside. I thought I could rip a bottom turn to avoid him, but I stalled too much on my bottom turn, and so I had to stop half way through my bottom turn. I felt his board and calf hit my head. I apologized to him profusely, and he asked if I was ok. I said I was, and apologized again, and he smiled back. We paddled away to our respective spots.

Once the tide hit the low point, the waves started standing up more. I was still catching waves, but I wanted to go back on my Don Kadowaki.

I paddled in, ran up to my car, and switched boards.

I saw Uncle Miles and Miwa-san walk out as I was switching boards. Uncle Miles caught a long right, as he always does, and also caught this huge left. The lefts were definitely more open today. Miwa-san is improving so much! She has this shorter foamie to help her paddle into waves, and when she pops up, her back leg is completely bent to the point where her right knee is touching the board. She then touches the face of the wave to gain balance, and then stands up, taking the wave to shore.

I caught one good right, and one really good left, just drawing out my pumps and carves on the face. I thought to myself, I could go for another hour… it’s only 930… I have free parking… but then I realized I should just go home and call it a day. It was a good morning already, and I have a lot to do today.

I saw CC on the way back, so I walk and talk with her back to the beach. We part ways and I go on with my day.

Paco's Tacos Pan Fried Fish!

I hung out with my cousin Jenny aka Bjork’s stunt double for an early lunch. We ate at Paco’s Tacos, which is a household Mexican restaurant in Culver City. They have hand-made tortillas that are the best in the city.

At 200PM, I had to meet my friend Sasha and Alice for another lunch. This was around the corner at Shojin. This restaurant is a gluten-free, vegan restaurant, and just for this day, they had a special 10 course vegetable tasting menu. I thought, “Oh, it’s just vegetables, it won’t be filling.”

Boy was I wrong.

It was more of a flavor journey into the abyss, culminated by a champagne supernova orgasm in your mouth. Say. What.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!