Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Mushy September 090113

Surf: 1-2 feet
Water: Cool
Atmosphere: Sunny / Kloudy
Winds: Null

Matt and Bri came out today!!  My partner in crime, Mel, and I drove up to the parking lot and scored a spot next to Ross, the goofy footer ripper. 

It was another day for a fish... I had a few good rides early in the morning.

Still looking for Matt. 

He was south of the towers, where the SUP crew paddle around a lot.  I know that place gets good, but it's so crowded, I stay away. 

I'm getting better with the fish, but I feel like I'm developing bad habits of being heavy on my front foot to garner speed instead of surfing off my back foot. 

Mel again was on fire today!  She is catching a lot of waves on her 6'6". 

I heard her scream, "ahhhh!!" and SPLASH!!

Orlando, aka Rastamon, yells, "I'm sorry Mel!! I was just trying to share a wave with you!!"

apparently, Mel snaked Orlando from far away, but Orlando caught up to her on the wave, and scared the shit out of her.  Mel fell, and Orlando was laughing. 

Bri and Matt paddle up to our area, and we embrace.  Bri fucking GOING FOR IT!!  She is improving every time I see her out in the water.  We cheer her on and look on with envy as she gets some mushy waves. 

Matt looked like he was struggling all morning on his magic carpet.  It was just too mushy and high tide.  He wanted to get some turns, but there was really no way to turn today, unless of course you are Ross. 

Ross can turn on a dime on the mushiest of waves, and make any wave look surfable.  He had to leave early because he had family stuff to do. 

We all get out together and congregate at the parking lot. 

The surf was pretty shitty, but it's all about the people you surf with!!!

Mahalos Mother Ocean.

No comments:

Post a Comment