Surf Report: 1-3 feet
Winds: Offshore
Water: Cool
Atmosphere: Calm before the "storm" cloudy skies
I wanted to ease my way into my shortboard, but today felt like a good day to be on my fish. My fish.. the good ol' red I call MJ for Mary Jane. Mary Jane, Spiderman's girlfriend, has firey red hair, so it felt right to name her that.
I was supposed to meet Joyce this morning, but she gave me the run around of "The surf report says very poor. I've never seen it VERY POOR." and "I don't want to be [shark] food, I saw it on TV last night."
I texted her back, "Zombies were on TV too."
I have tried not to push people to surf as much. I know people have different definitions of "love," meaning that there are different levels of commitment to certain activities such as surfing. But, she did commit to going last night, and all I was reading was surf report this, surf report that, cold weather, tomorrow, tomorrow, tomorrow. I don't like to rely on surf reports too much. I check three surf reports: Wetsand, Magic Seaweed, and CDIP buoys. I also watch the weather and tide. And, if it looks as if there is at least something rideable, I'll go.
So I pull up to an empty parking lot, and see a few black dots in the line up. It seems Ross is in the line up since his car is in the lot. Where are the groms? None of the cars were here.
I paddle out with my red fish. The water seems cold, but I got used to it after my first duck dive. The water was crystal clear this day... and the sun was fighting to crack through the grey clouds. The light offshore winds feathered the peaks as they rolled in.
I had no discomfort in my shoulder as I paddled out... a good sign. No discomfort as I duck dived the on coming white wash... another good sign. I flipped around for a right, and popped up. No discomfort here either. Two groms backed out as I pumped down the line. I do a check turn and bounce off the white wash. I tried to pump down the line again, but the wave died down.
I see Ross take a left from the tower. he pumps down the line, does a check turn, then pumps further down and busts a carving 360 on the close out section.
He comes by to say hi to me, seeing that I caught a right. He loves rights more than lefts, even though he is goofy footed. However, the rights don't roll through as consistently as the left where he was, and soon he paddles back to the left.
A surfer by the name of Jack starts to talk to me. It was so spread out that he had no one to converse to, he said.
"You know, this is a lot better than yesterday," he said.
"It's supposed to be worse today than it was yesterday right?"
"Yea! Isn't that crazy? Surf reports... can't trust 'em."
Indeed, can't trust the reports at all.
I hoot him into a nice right and he takes it all the way to shore. He is stoked. And therefore, I am stoked.
I paddle in late into a left. The wave crashes on me as I am popping up. No discomfort there, either. I do a small turn and come back in the white water, and pump a little bit more down the line.
Speaking of pop ups, I have had to change my paddle and pop up again. I'm keeping my shoulders lower and away from my ears every time I paddle and pop up. It seems I've been muscling my way through the water up till now. So, it feels like my paddle is smoother, and my pop ups are more stylish. I hope this translates to better style.
I surfed for about an hour, and get changed to go to work. My morning feels... complete. I've missed these sessions.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
Thursday, November 21, 2013
Tuesday, November 19, 2013
Be Quick, But Don't Rush 111713
Waves: 2-3 feet
Winds: Offshore
Water: 3/2 still, but getting colder
Atmosphere: Sunny with patchy clouds
I injured my shoulder on October 5th, 2013. I was going for a right, popped up, tried to do a top turn, failed, and as I was falling, my left arm was behind me. The wave was sucking up still, since I was high on the wave, and the wave took my left arm and wrenched it behind me, popping it out of the socket.
I was devastated.
In hindsight, I was pushing the limits of my body. I was surfing almost everyday, going to work for 10-11 hours, six times a week, and not getting enough rest. Surfing was my "out" to deal with work related stress, and so in my mind, I had to surf. But in the end, I forced my body to run on fumes, and did a half ass turn, and injured myself, incapacitating and hampering my own body for a few months.
I have been going to rehab three times a week, and each session is three hours long. Not to stop there, I continuously work on my shoulders and legs when I am at work and home. I went to acupuncture, and realized all of my old injuries to my ankles, knees, and shoulder are resurfacing on my body with compensation injuries to my legs, hips, lower back, upper back, and neck. I had to revamp my whole routine.
So I have been trying to ease my way into surfing. I swam in the pool twice prior to this day, paddled around without popping up a week earlier, and have been doing push ups on my indo board, exercise ball, and on the floor. I felt ready to get back out in the water.
Luckily, this day was small, and high tide was mushing all the waves. I got up late to go surf, so the dawn patrol was just leaving the lot.
"Are you paddling out Klaude??" Eric asked.
"Today would be a really good day for you to get back in," added Kim.
So, I got Kim's parking spot under the tree, and headed out. I grabbed Mel's board without her permission from the garage since the foamie was not there.
I knew Bri would be out, so I paddled out to my usual spot in front of the Mons Pubis. I can see Roy on his red fish tearing it up, and Bruce was out on his foamie. I catch sight of Bri from behind (unmistakeably her backside) and sneak up on her. We give each other a big hug, and chit chat.
I was apprehensive at first paddling for the high tide mush. I doubted myself and the condition of my shoulders. But I told myself, "Look, you've done all the right things, you're gonna be fine. You're ready. JUST GO FOR IT!"
And so I caught my first left. It was a small, down the line left, but man oh man!!! did i miss this feeling!!!!!
I paddled back out with a smile to my face.
Bri was killing it once again. As I paddled back out, she caught a nice right. She took this right all the way to shore.
She paddled back out and caught another clean right all the way to shore. She took a long time to get back to the line up since she took it so far. I am really impressed with her progress as a surfer, and Matt aka Donny Duckbutter, should be proud.
I caught one right and tried to pump down the line. The board was too big so I couldn't pump too well. I also tried to bottom turn and the board just slooooooowly went up the face and so I couldn't really set myself up to do a turn or a floater. But, I was still stoked.
There was one wave where I paddled and fell. I thought I had the wave, and popped up, but fell as I got to my feet. The guy next to me laughed, saying, "Wow, that was some wicked backwash. It just threw you off your board!" I was glad it was the wave and not my body that forced me to fall.
Bruce was killing it on his foamie this day. He would take off behind the other locals and play catch up with them.
Roy was killing it on his red fish too. He was getting rides from the tower all the way to the Mons.
It was crowded as hell, but I had a great time. I can't wait to get back on my shortboard, but I'm taking it step by step. Be quick, but don't rush, as John Wooden said to his injured players.
So, I'm off to Hawaii on December 4th. It is my first vacation since June of 2012, when I went with Fransauce to Oahu. I hope to be able to surf some waves then and watch the Pipemasters live. But, I am ok with not being able to surf the gnarly waves of the North Shore if I am not ready for them. It's ok, I have my long term goal of surfing all winter this season, so I don't want to lose sight of that goal.
Anyways, happy surfing to all!!
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!!
Winds: Offshore
Water: 3/2 still, but getting colder
Atmosphere: Sunny with patchy clouds
I injured my shoulder on October 5th, 2013. I was going for a right, popped up, tried to do a top turn, failed, and as I was falling, my left arm was behind me. The wave was sucking up still, since I was high on the wave, and the wave took my left arm and wrenched it behind me, popping it out of the socket.
I was devastated.
In hindsight, I was pushing the limits of my body. I was surfing almost everyday, going to work for 10-11 hours, six times a week, and not getting enough rest. Surfing was my "out" to deal with work related stress, and so in my mind, I had to surf. But in the end, I forced my body to run on fumes, and did a half ass turn, and injured myself, incapacitating and hampering my own body for a few months.
I have been going to rehab three times a week, and each session is three hours long. Not to stop there, I continuously work on my shoulders and legs when I am at work and home. I went to acupuncture, and realized all of my old injuries to my ankles, knees, and shoulder are resurfacing on my body with compensation injuries to my legs, hips, lower back, upper back, and neck. I had to revamp my whole routine.
So I have been trying to ease my way into surfing. I swam in the pool twice prior to this day, paddled around without popping up a week earlier, and have been doing push ups on my indo board, exercise ball, and on the floor. I felt ready to get back out in the water.
Luckily, this day was small, and high tide was mushing all the waves. I got up late to go surf, so the dawn patrol was just leaving the lot.
"Are you paddling out Klaude??" Eric asked.
"Today would be a really good day for you to get back in," added Kim.
So, I got Kim's parking spot under the tree, and headed out. I grabbed Mel's board without her permission from the garage since the foamie was not there.
I knew Bri would be out, so I paddled out to my usual spot in front of the Mons Pubis. I can see Roy on his red fish tearing it up, and Bruce was out on his foamie. I catch sight of Bri from behind (unmistakeably her backside) and sneak up on her. We give each other a big hug, and chit chat.
I was apprehensive at first paddling for the high tide mush. I doubted myself and the condition of my shoulders. But I told myself, "Look, you've done all the right things, you're gonna be fine. You're ready. JUST GO FOR IT!"
And so I caught my first left. It was a small, down the line left, but man oh man!!! did i miss this feeling!!!!!
I paddled back out with a smile to my face.
Bri was killing it once again. As I paddled back out, she caught a nice right. She took this right all the way to shore.
She paddled back out and caught another clean right all the way to shore. She took a long time to get back to the line up since she took it so far. I am really impressed with her progress as a surfer, and Matt aka Donny Duckbutter, should be proud.
I caught one right and tried to pump down the line. The board was too big so I couldn't pump too well. I also tried to bottom turn and the board just slooooooowly went up the face and so I couldn't really set myself up to do a turn or a floater. But, I was still stoked.
There was one wave where I paddled and fell. I thought I had the wave, and popped up, but fell as I got to my feet. The guy next to me laughed, saying, "Wow, that was some wicked backwash. It just threw you off your board!" I was glad it was the wave and not my body that forced me to fall.
Bruce was killing it on his foamie this day. He would take off behind the other locals and play catch up with them.
Roy was killing it on his red fish too. He was getting rides from the tower all the way to the Mons.
It was crowded as hell, but I had a great time. I can't wait to get back on my shortboard, but I'm taking it step by step. Be quick, but don't rush, as John Wooden said to his injured players.
So, I'm off to Hawaii on December 4th. It is my first vacation since June of 2012, when I went with Fransauce to Oahu. I hope to be able to surf some waves then and watch the Pipemasters live. But, I am ok with not being able to surf the gnarly waves of the North Shore if I am not ready for them. It's ok, I have my long term goal of surfing all winter this season, so I don't want to lose sight of that goal.
Anyways, happy surfing to all!!
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!!
Thursday, September 5, 2013
Intuition Tuesday 090313
Surf: Small and forgetful
Atmosphere: Sunny and warm
Water: Cool
Winds: Null
I didn't surf Monday, for I was a bit hung over and tired from Sunday. We had numerous guests come through during the day and night, and I coached a championship game for my kids. We lost by 8 points, but considering that we lost to the same team months ago by more than 30, I'd say it's an improvement!! I am very proud of these boys. I had to resist my urge to tell them, "Second place is only the first loser, so don't be so happy." Most of them were upset by the result of 2nd place, and I told them, "Good, be upset. But let it go. Let go of that feeling of being upset, since we have another game coming up next week."
I took out my CI Neck Beard since Khang came over last night an said that I should take out the Neck Beard is small, lackluster surf. "It's designed for those kinds of waves!!"
Well, my intuition said, BRING THE FISH.
Shoulda listened to intuition.
This day was gutless and small, and I had a hard time catching waves.
The whole time, I was thinking MAN I WISH I HAD MY FISH. There were still waves, but it was really hard to catch on my Neck Beard.
Oh well.
Listen to your intuition next time, KK. Not Khang.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!
Atmosphere: Sunny and warm
Water: Cool
Winds: Null
I didn't surf Monday, for I was a bit hung over and tired from Sunday. We had numerous guests come through during the day and night, and I coached a championship game for my kids. We lost by 8 points, but considering that we lost to the same team months ago by more than 30, I'd say it's an improvement!! I am very proud of these boys. I had to resist my urge to tell them, "Second place is only the first loser, so don't be so happy." Most of them were upset by the result of 2nd place, and I told them, "Good, be upset. But let it go. Let go of that feeling of being upset, since we have another game coming up next week."
I took out my CI Neck Beard since Khang came over last night an said that I should take out the Neck Beard is small, lackluster surf. "It's designed for those kinds of waves!!"
Well, my intuition said, BRING THE FISH.
Shoulda listened to intuition.
This day was gutless and small, and I had a hard time catching waves.
The whole time, I was thinking MAN I WISH I HAD MY FISH. There were still waves, but it was really hard to catch on my Neck Beard.
Oh well.
Listen to your intuition next time, KK. Not Khang.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!
Tuesday, September 3, 2013
Mushy September 090113
Surf: 1-2 feet
Water: Cool
Atmosphere: Sunny / Kloudy
Winds: Null
Matt and Bri came out today!! My partner in crime, Mel, and I drove up to the parking lot and scored a spot next to Ross, the goofy footer ripper.
It was another day for a fish... I had a few good rides early in the morning.
Still looking for Matt.
He was south of the towers, where the SUP crew paddle around a lot. I know that place gets good, but it's so crowded, I stay away.
I'm getting better with the fish, but I feel like I'm developing bad habits of being heavy on my front foot to garner speed instead of surfing off my back foot.
Mel again was on fire today! She is catching a lot of waves on her 6'6".
I heard her scream, "ahhhh!!" and SPLASH!!
Orlando, aka Rastamon, yells, "I'm sorry Mel!! I was just trying to share a wave with you!!"
apparently, Mel snaked Orlando from far away, but Orlando caught up to her on the wave, and scared the shit out of her. Mel fell, and Orlando was laughing.
Bri and Matt paddle up to our area, and we embrace. Bri fucking GOING FOR IT!! She is improving every time I see her out in the water. We cheer her on and look on with envy as she gets some mushy waves.
Matt looked like he was struggling all morning on his magic carpet. It was just too mushy and high tide. He wanted to get some turns, but there was really no way to turn today, unless of course you are Ross.
Ross can turn on a dime on the mushiest of waves, and make any wave look surfable. He had to leave early because he had family stuff to do.
We all get out together and congregate at the parking lot.
The surf was pretty shitty, but it's all about the people you surf with!!!
Mahalos Mother Ocean.
Water: Cool
Atmosphere: Sunny / Kloudy
Winds: Null
Matt and Bri came out today!! My partner in crime, Mel, and I drove up to the parking lot and scored a spot next to Ross, the goofy footer ripper.
It was another day for a fish... I had a few good rides early in the morning.
Still looking for Matt.
He was south of the towers, where the SUP crew paddle around a lot. I know that place gets good, but it's so crowded, I stay away.
I'm getting better with the fish, but I feel like I'm developing bad habits of being heavy on my front foot to garner speed instead of surfing off my back foot.
Mel again was on fire today! She is catching a lot of waves on her 6'6".
I heard her scream, "ahhhh!!" and SPLASH!!
Orlando, aka Rastamon, yells, "I'm sorry Mel!! I was just trying to share a wave with you!!"
apparently, Mel snaked Orlando from far away, but Orlando caught up to her on the wave, and scared the shit out of her. Mel fell, and Orlando was laughing.
Bri and Matt paddle up to our area, and we embrace. Bri fucking GOING FOR IT!! She is improving every time I see her out in the water. We cheer her on and look on with envy as she gets some mushy waves.
Matt looked like he was struggling all morning on his magic carpet. It was just too mushy and high tide. He wanted to get some turns, but there was really no way to turn today, unless of course you are Ross.
Ross can turn on a dime on the mushiest of waves, and make any wave look surfable. He had to leave early because he had family stuff to do.
We all get out together and congregate at the parking lot.
The surf was pretty shitty, but it's all about the people you surf with!!!
Mahalos Mother Ocean.
Waiting for Matt 083113
Surf: 1-3 feet
Winds: Null
Water:Cool
Atmosphere: Sunny and hot
I had to dawn patrol this day since I had to be in Pasadena to coach a basketball game by 930AM.
Mellie Mel and I depart the house by 600 AM and get to the parking lot by 630.
I took out my fish while she took out Pat's 6'6" fun board.
I remember catching a lot of great rides this day on my fish.
Mel also caught a lot of great waves too. Her pop up is improving every time we go out. This is our 3rd day straight of surfing. Natural progression.
The whole time, I was looking for Matt. Waiting for Godot. I mean, waiting for Matt.
Mel gets a left from the peak. She grabs her rail to direct her board at an angle, and slides across the surface. Every one in the line up is watching her as the wave picks up more and more and she slides and glides.
She ends up on shore and we collectively give a loud hoot.
I paddle for a left and see Mel back out on the shoulder. I start pumping on my heels and then cut back to the white foam. The wave rebuilds on the inside and I start pumping more until I see the sand on the wave. I hop off my board and look back - the take off point was a good twenty feet away. SO STOKED.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
Winds: Null
Water:Cool
Atmosphere: Sunny and hot
I had to dawn patrol this day since I had to be in Pasadena to coach a basketball game by 930AM.
Mellie Mel and I depart the house by 600 AM and get to the parking lot by 630.
I took out my fish while she took out Pat's 6'6" fun board.
I remember catching a lot of great rides this day on my fish.
Mel also caught a lot of great waves too. Her pop up is improving every time we go out. This is our 3rd day straight of surfing. Natural progression.
The whole time, I was looking for Matt. Waiting for Godot. I mean, waiting for Matt.
Mel gets a left from the peak. She grabs her rail to direct her board at an angle, and slides across the surface. Every one in the line up is watching her as the wave picks up more and more and she slides and glides.
She ends up on shore and we collectively give a loud hoot.
I paddle for a left and see Mel back out on the shoulder. I start pumping on my heels and then cut back to the white foam. The wave rebuilds on the inside and I start pumping more until I see the sand on the wave. I hop off my board and look back - the take off point was a good twenty feet away. SO STOKED.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
Friday, August 30, 2013
School's Back in Session 083013
Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Water: Cold
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Null
School's back in session! How can I tell? Well, the line up was full with high school groms. "How was your summer?" "What did you do?" were the questions that were being tossed around the line up. Lots of kids were dropping in on each other.
The line up cleared up around 745, and the locals finally had a time to ourselves.
Mel had to poop so she came to the line up right on time.
She got some nice rights after I gave her the advice of crouching whenever she feels like she's gonna fall. Our natural "instinct" is to extend when we are about to fall, but if we can fight that and crouch, we'll make the wave.
I caught a lot of rides on my 5'6" Zippy fish. it was getting so easy to catch waves that i started practicing more on my turns than just pumping down the line. I tried to do three lay backs. One i gouged but fell on my back. I then tried to put less oomph on the lay back and made the turn, but it was less gougey. The third I gouged again and fell. Practice practice practice!!
The waves stayed consistent and we kept sharing more and more waves amongst the crowd. However, I had to go to work, so I cut out early.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
Fuck you tax season.
Water: Cold
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Null
School's back in session! How can I tell? Well, the line up was full with high school groms. "How was your summer?" "What did you do?" were the questions that were being tossed around the line up. Lots of kids were dropping in on each other.
The line up cleared up around 745, and the locals finally had a time to ourselves.
Mel had to poop so she came to the line up right on time.
She got some nice rights after I gave her the advice of crouching whenever she feels like she's gonna fall. Our natural "instinct" is to extend when we are about to fall, but if we can fight that and crouch, we'll make the wave.
I caught a lot of rides on my 5'6" Zippy fish. it was getting so easy to catch waves that i started practicing more on my turns than just pumping down the line. I tried to do three lay backs. One i gouged but fell on my back. I then tried to put less oomph on the lay back and made the turn, but it was less gougey. The third I gouged again and fell. Practice practice practice!!
The waves stayed consistent and we kept sharing more and more waves amongst the crowd. However, I had to go to work, so I cut out early.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
Fuck you tax season.
Thursday, August 29, 2013
Wetsuits to Dress suits 08292013
Surf Report: 1-2 feet
Water: Cold/cool (spring suit will suffice)
Atmosphere: Sunny!
Winds: None
surfed before work today with da roomie, Mellie Mel! We had to come in separate cars cuz I had to go to work, but we paddled out together out front of 26th Street.
The locals were out, including Mr. Mike, Ross, Mitch, and Don Kadowaki. I took out my fish, while Mel took out Pat's 2+1 egg shape fun board.
LOTS OF FUN WAVES!!! I couldn't believe there were some fun ones. the fish worked great. i have to keep this blog entry short since i'm at work, and it's tax season.
however, i wanted to share a little quote i heard on NPR news a few weeks back.
IF YOU DON'T WRITE, YOU'LL DIE.
perhaps this means if one doesn't put their thoughts on paper, a form of self-expression, then they will die. or that writing is a creative outlet for people, and as we all know, creativity breathes life into our rather dismal hustle and bustle life style. in any event, keep writing!!
Mahalos Mother Ocean!
Water: Cold/cool (spring suit will suffice)
Atmosphere: Sunny!
Winds: None
surfed before work today with da roomie, Mellie Mel! We had to come in separate cars cuz I had to go to work, but we paddled out together out front of 26th Street.
The locals were out, including Mr. Mike, Ross, Mitch, and Don Kadowaki. I took out my fish, while Mel took out Pat's 2+1 egg shape fun board.
LOTS OF FUN WAVES!!! I couldn't believe there were some fun ones. the fish worked great. i have to keep this blog entry short since i'm at work, and it's tax season.
however, i wanted to share a little quote i heard on NPR news a few weeks back.
IF YOU DON'T WRITE, YOU'LL DIE.
perhaps this means if one doesn't put their thoughts on paper, a form of self-expression, then they will die. or that writing is a creative outlet for people, and as we all know, creativity breathes life into our rather dismal hustle and bustle life style. in any event, keep writing!!
Mahalos Mother Ocean!
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