Fish Days 100814

Surf Report: Mushy 1-3 feet
Atmosphere: Sunny and hot
Water: Warm
Winds: Minimal

I've been stressed out from work and my personal life... I had to paddle out today.

I think from all the stress my body told me to get the fuck up out of bed immediately and not snooze. Luckily, I got to see an amazing sun rise on my drive over to Manhattan Beach.

Drive-By Photo from my iPhone

The grom patrol was still out, but I had my red fish. I can see Bri in the pack catching waves. How does she do it? I'm not sure, but I paddle up to her and give her a big hug.

"Where's Matt?" I ask.

"He's somewhere, I don't know where though," she says. "Probably over there, away from this pack." She points further north.

Bri and I catch some waves, and she leaves for work. The groms leave soon afterwards, and Matt comes paddling over on his CC Peniston blue fish. We both shoot the shit while catching waves. It's nothing significant today, just a good day to be in the water on fish boards with your friends.

We leave the beach around 900 AM. I head to work feeling like I'm in a good headspace for the day.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!