Laugh Off 100314

Surf Report: 3-4 feet and closing out on the bigger sets
Water: Warm
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Slight offshore

I arrive at the beach late. I'm looking for Matt. Where could he be?

Oh right... he said he's meeting up with the Westside Hurley Crew (WHC) at Rosecrans this day.

The waves are still throwing over, but they aren't as gaping open as they were yesterday. I'm in a different zone today... it doesn't seem so fun today.

Porque?

I catch some rights but don't get too much distance. The bigger ones close out and aren't offering the peaky ledges that was on offer yesterday. I look back, and the current has carried me further north. I start to paddle back.

Ross and I are in the same area, and I can see surfers do the merry-go-round walk back to where they started. More surfers are drifting towards us. We fight the current more.

Ross is frustrated. I'm frustrated. Mother Ocean isn't offering any clean rides today. She is just churning and swirling in a brown, marbleized swill chaotically. Just one ride, please?

I go for a wave, and the wave sucks down and bottoms out. I watch my board get taken as I fall with the lip. The wipe out wasn't as violent, but I touch bottom. So, it's one of those days ey?

Ross gets a sort-of one shot turn wave. He leaves after that, cashing in his chips and heading off to work.

I keep eating shit the whole time. Every single wave was a wipe out. What a contrast from yesterday. Yesterday was a little smaller, but the current wasn't there, and peaks were playful. Today... they are just unmakeable.

I'm not happy with the conditions, but I choose to be happy. I laugh off the shitty waves. I laugh off the times I touched bottom. I laugh off the waves that dropped straight down into a sandy pit of shallow salt water. I laugh my ass off all the way to work.

It's hard to be angry at Mother Ocean when she annihilates you so easily. And it could have been worse! She could have been silent and not even break. I will take a beat down from Mother Ocean over sitting in an office any day.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!