Monday, October 27, 2014

Reset Button 101814

Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Off shore
Water: Warm

I've been recovering from tax season and unable to wake up early. It didn't seem like a problem during tax season, but once tax season ended, my body just hit the floor and I've been sleeping for nine hours every night.

I finally get up "in time" for surf on Saturday, which is like 830 AM. I stretch and get my gear together, heading out the door super late.

As I drive down Highland and hang a right on Rosecrans, I see Matt's car being driven by Bri. Crap... she is already leaving?? How late am I????

I get a parking spot in the lot, and feed the meter. The waves look really good. I start to make my way down to the sand... It's fucking 900 AM already.

I stretch my creaking body a bit more and hit the water. At first duck dive, I feel like all the recovery is completed, and I am being washed away into the bosom of Mother Ocean.

Some of the locals are still out, including Kim, Roy, and a bunch of other people. However, I see a lot of fresh faces that I never see... I guess all the people who are fed up with El Porto found a new parking lot to park in and decided to surf here now.

"Klaude! Where ya been? Haven't seen you in a while!" Kim says.

"Yea, I've been in recovery mode after the 15th," I tell her.

Kim and I chit chat about the waves for a while. It's always nice to be able to talk to the locals here.

I feel my hip creaking and popping with every little movement. My shoulders are tight, and my neck keeps cracking when I shake it side to side.

I don't remember many of the waves ridden today, except for the fact that it was just super fun. I remember getting a ton of waves under my belt and having a blast. By the end of the session, my back was a little sore, but my hips weren't creaking so much. My neck was no longer stiff, and my shoulders slumped down, relaxed and rejuvenated.

If there is ever something called "magic" it would be the effect of Mother Ocean on my mind, body and soul. Just one two hour session allowed me to bounce back into the rhythm of my life after catching up on sleep and rest and food. I could never thank the Ocean enough for how good She makes me feel.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!

1 comment:

  1. I will cast a second vote for Mother Ocean's magic. Hope we catch up soon in the lineup. We spend our time about .5 a mile apart.

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