Back to Writing in My Blog 110712

Surf Report: 2-3+ feet

Water: Cool

Winds: Slight on shore

Atmosphere: Kloudy

Yesterday was a historical day of sorts.  President Obama was re-elected as our 44^th President.  Proposition 30 passed thankfully.  Denver legalized marijuana.  And I took my Audit exam for the CPA for the third time.  Last time I took this exam was on August 28^th.  I was semi-confident about getting the passing score on this curved exam, but I found out on September 11^th that I didn’t pass.  I was devastated.  I moped around for about a week, trying to figure out why and what I did wrong.  I felt that I let a lot of people down by FAILING.  I stopped saying to myself that I FAILED and rather that I “DIDN’T PASS.” 

So, I went back into hardcore studying mode.  But this time around, I made sure to change all my study habits.  I stopped doing so many practice exams, and focused on my outlines I made of my weaknesses.  I tried to keep in touch with my close friends.  I surfed and swam as much as I possibly could.  I also picked up a ukulele and started playing that every day to ease my mind.  I tried to not pressure myself into not failing, but focused on passing.  I played images in my mind, over and over, that I got the score, and how elated I would be when I see that online page that says that I passed. 

And so, I felt really fucking good about this test.  There were only a few questions that I didn’t know the answer to completely… but that’s fine.  It’s a hard exam.  It’s supposed to be a hard exam.  I did my best.  And I know I passed. 

Instead of going out for a celebratory drink, I skated with some friends, and went home.  I watched the election results while having a beer and talking to my folks.  I am a registered Republican, but I voted for Obama and Biden.  Screw Romney and his whole team.  Their policies make absolutely no sense to a guy who has a tax background.  I was very happy that Obama got re-elected, and his speech at the end sent chills down my spine. 

And I went to sleep, feeling high and giddy at the possibility of good surf in the morning before work…

I woke up at 530, and got myself together and out the door by 610.  The day was already bright but with a cloudy grey shining on the quiet Los Angeles pavement.  I took the freeway, where I almost hit a car who blind-sighted me going 75 mph, while I was going 65.  He honked at me, stared me down, and took off on the 105E.  He must be in a rush, I thought.  I was thankful that there was no accident. 

I pass by Rosecrans, and the line up is already packed.  What.  The.  Fuck.  Everyone must have read the report that today will be a semi-decent day for surf. 

I get to 26^th Street, and there is no parking.  I had to park up the hill.  Turns out that both surf teams from the local high schools were out this morning, so the line up was nut to butt crowded.  I managed to catch two quick waves in between the crowd of groms.  Although these groms may overpower in numbers, I sneak in between them and catch my waves.  I see Roy immediately and say hi to him.  We chit-chat about life, and hope that 730 rolls around soon, since that is when the groms have to leave the beach to go to school. 

One of my first waves was a right where I pumped down the line and hit the top of the lip softly.  A left rolled through and I was able to bottom turn up the lip, and snapped the board back on to the oncoming white water section.  I didn’t stick the turn, but I felt the board swing under my feet with all the G-forces and so that felt good.  Thank you carver skateboard sessions!

There weren’t too many outstanding waves today.  I guess I was just happy to be surfing on a work day.  The conditions deteriorated quickly as the minutes ticked by, and I caught a small right where I did a floater and landed it.  Waves started to suck up on the shore, and I took a mean wipe out on a left. 

I said my good-bye to Roy, and headed back to my car.  While I changed, Toru, another local, stopped by to say hi.  He is a banker in the South Bay, and was asking how my CPA test went.  He also mentioned how he could offer a job at his bank if I was interested, since my out-going personality might make me bored as a CPA.  I thanked him for the offer and told him that we will see what unfolds.  Not that I wanted to brush his offer away, but rather that I have a task at hand for now, and a boss that I love to work for, so I can’t just switch occupations.  I always like to have options, so I don’t want to close any doors, but now is not the time to be switching occupations. 

I never thought I would be a CPA until I started working at this firm.  I fell into this job through the people I knew from my previous job as a real estate leasing agent.  I always thought I would be a real estate tycoon.  I worked at a real estate firm for six years before quitting, and then BAM, I’m trying to be a CPA.  If there is one fact that is assured in life, it is that one is unsure about what will happen next.  We will never know for sure what will happen next.  And even if we did, why would I want to know?  Life would be so boring and predictable by knowing what happens next. 

Things just tend to happen and fall into place.   So, I will keep Toru’s offer in mind, but for the time being, I need to focus on the task at hand.  And for now, the task is to catch up with my friends that I haven’t seen in a while, surf, coach, play my uke, and relax for a while… and always keep a smile on my face!

Mahalos Mother Ocean!! 

Zero's Love 070712

2-4 foot

Cold water

Off shore winds

Gloomy

Roy has been touting about SW swells hitting Zero’s for a while.  I’ve been here with him once before when it was crappy, and I had a lot of fun.  So, knowing that there was some swell in the water, I was excited to try out the spot. 

Roy and I were texting back and forth on Friday.  We had talked earlier in the week to go to Zero’s, and so he and I were just hammering out details on when to meet at Zero’s.  He texted me that he will be there early, so I said I’ll be there.

How early was early?  I was out the door before 600 AM, and I was passing by Sunset point by 610 AM.  I called him, and there was no answer.  I hope he just didn’t want to pick up his phone because he was driving.  I pass by Topanga, where small, perfect two footers were rolling through unridden.  I pass by Malibu, and there was a pack of surfers in the water, waiting for ankle slappers rolling through. 

I call Roy again, and there was no answer.  Fuck, did he flake?  Am I making a solo mission all the way to Zero’s, and not going to see anyone I know?  Well whatever, no turning back now.  I go one way and its always straight forward.  I continue along my journey, past Zuma, past El Matador beach, and finally to Zero’s.

I get out of my car, walk to the overlook, and expect nothing but two foot ankle slappers.  A five foot set booms on the shore, and rattles my senses awake.  I run back, as a body boarder who was parked behind me is walking towards me. 

“Looks fun!” I say to him.

“Yea!  See you out there!” he tells me.

I walk down, and see Roy’s car.  Well, at least I have one guy I know in the water.

I get to the beach, and the line up is crowded.  I’m not turned off by that, but I am turned off by the fact that the five footer that I just saw when I arrived was almost a mirage.  The ocean was dead flat, and everyone just seemed to be shooting the shit.  I take my time stretching before paddling out.

I see Roy in the line up, and we exchange pleasantries.   He tells me to watch out for the boil, but that the waves are fun.  Hopefully when the tide fills in, it will be more fun. 

There is a rock that creates a boil in the middle of the line up.  I saw a guy standing on it while I was sitting in the line up.  It’s the first time I’ve seen Zero’s crowded, so I’m trying to read everyone’s ability and priority, along with the waves coming in. 

There was a 30 minute wait for the sets today.  The lulls lulled us to sleep.  I found myself yawning in between the waves. 

I go for a warm up wave, where the body boarder I met earlier told me to go for it.  He was on my inside, but he gave it up and let me go.  The section runs out ahead of me and another surfer takes off about ten feet away from me.  If I was only faster…

I was looking for some of the rights, but they would just fold over and wedge up too much for me.  I ate it on every attempt going right. 

A surfer in blue and grey, whom I later learned is named Matt (we called him Matty) was sitting wide out of all of us.  He’s a goofy footer that attends the University of Hawaii as a junior, and is studying Marine Biology.  He takes off on a right that swings way wide of us, and a SUP snakes him.  He hoots him off, and pumps a beautiful line on the face.  He gets to the inside section and does a check turn before ripping a bottom turn and busting the fins out on his backside on the inside.  The whole line up blew up with hoots on that move. 

I get to talk to another local who grew up in Hawaii too.  He was really friendly, loud, and big.  He was a happy camper though, and commanded respect from the line up.  However, he wasn’t arrogant about it, and was joking around with everyone, even with me, whom he just met. 

“Oh shit, here comes Stevie!  Can’t wait for him to get in the line up…” he said sarcastically.  It seems everyone knows everyone here, but unlike other “local heavy” spots, these guys are welcoming of any new guys with good vibes. 

I also get to talk to another guy in blue, who is a lifeguard around here.  He said July 4^th was a crazy day for him to work, since everyone and their mama came out to the beach.  He wished he was able to surf, but he was out saving lives the whole day. 

Roy was catching a lot of waves as always, and so was Matty.  They were both pushing me into waves, but my ability backside wasn’t on par with them, and I would get dropped in on by others since they could see I couldn’t make the sections on my backside.  Time after time, they would ask if I caught a good one, and I would have to be honest and reply, “My backside isn’t where I want it to be, so I got dropped in on and couldn’t make the section.”  If I was just faster, I would make other surfers back out of the waves I’m on. 

Roy went back and forth from our spot near the boil in front of the stairs, to the south in front of the rocks, then back to the spot near the stairs.   He was catching a lot of waves all to himself.  Every time he would have a huge smile on his face.  He is definitely my surf guru. 

Maya, whom I met last time, came out too.  She is a beautiful Italian lady who owns a few restaurants.  We catch up a little bit, and I try to push her into some waves.  The crowd was getting to her, and she disappeared after a frustrating one and a half hours of sitting and waiting and wishing.  Un altra volta (another time.)

While I was on the inside, I get to see Matty’s ability up front.  He was going on a left, maneuvering through crowds, threading the needle.  He drew beautiful lines that permeated with me throughout the whole day.  He carves and pumps with ease.  The lines he drew on the big canvas at Zero’s was so beautiful, I wished I could draw those too. 

I’m in a great position for a left that passes up everyone.  Or maybe everyone passed up for me.  I paddle with intent, with passion, and catch speed.  Right at the moment when I feel the slide, I see two surfers right in front of me.  One was a girl, another was a guy.  They probably just got out of the water.  I had to bail on my board and tug on my leash as to not hit them.  I resurface with a disappointed look on my face, and the girl and the guy both look unbothered, as if they had done nothing wrong.  Perhaps they didn’t do anything wrong. 

Roy asks, “Why didn’t you go?  Matty went right, you were in the perfect position for that left!  It opened up so nicely man…”

“There were two people right in front of me, if I had gone I would have ran them over.”

“You still should have gone,” he says. 

Damn, I guess so. 

I surfed a total of 4 hours, but really, it was a lot of sitting and waiting and talking.  I see a text from Matt, which read “Skunked.”  He went to HB this morning, while I went to Zero’s.  He went south, I went north.  We both drove the same amount I fancy, but one of us got skunked, and one of us scored. 

I would have stayed longer, but I had to meet my friend Lydia and her fiancé Dan for lunch in Korea Town.  We went to Yu Chun Naeng Myun in Korea Town.  It was definitely some of the best Korean noodles I’ve ever had.  The spicy wasn’t that spicy because I poured all the broth into the noodles bowl.  But I think that was just perfectly refreshing.  On top of that, we got an order of Kimchee Mandoo (kimchee dumplings) to go with it.  So good!  A starving surfer like myself could get his fill on about $13. 

Naeng Myun with Kimchee Mandoo <3

Lydia then treated us both to some boba as we caught up a little bit more on life and plans for our near future travels. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!  Zero’s is a great place to get my backside game going. 

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Ala Moana Bowls 062312

0.5 – 1 feet

Off shore

Sunny

Cool water

Surf session with Kilty!!  I woke up at 700 AM and texted Kilty if she was down to surf before I left.  She answered that she was down, and offered to pick me up and drive us to Town.

It was another low tide day.  On the paddle out, I felt the reef on my hands.  I grabbed the reef while paddling.  When we got out to the line up, the place was infested with longboarders and people learning from lessons conducted by local Hwaiians.  It was a bit kloudy when we left, and so Kilty said, “I hope that the sun comes out…” as she smiled.

And just like that, the sun came out.

Kilty is a good surfer from Kaneohe.  I met her through a mutual friend back in LA while she was attending UCLA.  Today, she would take waves all the way to the inside and paddle back out, only to take another wave all the way in.

It was not such a great day for shortboarding, but I was able to get a few waves under my belt.  No turns, just pumping and chop hopping.  Still, I was stoked, and happy to be spending my last hours in Hawaii in the water. 

Ala Moana Bowls is a left that peels perfectly.  The legend Gerry Lopez honed his barrel riding skills at this very spot.  I can see how on a bigger day this place would be firing, but today was just a small day for surf. 

The water was so clear and the lulls were long, so I went diving.  I could see the coral breathing in and out, swaying with every wave.  I wish we had goggles on to see what was under here.  Kilty even said she had found a Nixon watch under water.  During a lull, I was diving, staring at the corals.  I resurfaced to find a small bump forming ahead of me.  I scramble to get on my board and awkwardly paddle for the wave to no avail.  Kilty laughs at my goofy nature and I laugh back. 

A word of advice: Don’t go right at Bowls.  This place is not like Kewalos, where the right is sort of makeable.  The right here is down right unmakeable.  I went for a right, and as soon as I popped up, I knew I was in trouble.  I could see the cry reef ahead o fme as the white water crumbled behind me.  I tried to casually kick out but the wave just kept taking me across the reef.  I felt an initial kiss on my back.  I felt my feet getting dragged on the reef.  And then I felt my elbow get thrashed by the reef.  I had to stand on the reef and wait for a few waves to pass before walking on the reef and walk out to the channel in order to paddle out.  Kilty was smiling at me as I made my paddle back out. 

“I guess I shouldn’t go right here huh?” I said.  She laughed at me.

As we sat, Kilty tells me a joke: “What did the spam tell the rice?” 

“Hmm, I don’t know.  What?”

“Let’s get nori (naughty)!”

I laughed out loud at that joke.  And then I laughed a little more thinking of caricatures of a piece of spam and some rice, getting together and getting naughty with nori. 

Kilty suggested we paddle across the reef to a right that was less crowded.  It was a spot called Rockpiles Rights, and it wasn’t as crowded as Bowls, but there was a definite hierarchy.  The Uncles took the best waves, all the time.  Kilty got two good rides, taking them all the way to the inside.  Must be that Hawaiian blood that flows so vigorously inside of her. 

She was trying to encourage me into waves, but it seemed the waves were not cooperating.  Our time in the water was running low.

We decided to paddle in.  I was convinced that we were around Kaiser’s and that we could paddle through the boat channel, as Fransauce and I did a few days ago. I paddled a little wide to the right, thinking to myself, “Where are the buoys showing the boat channel?”

Well bubba, there ain’t no buoys, since there ain’t no channel, since you ain’t at Kaisers! 

I feel my fins hit the reef.  OH FUCK.  Kilty looks back at me, probably wondering why I didn’t follow her into the channel.  She points to my left. 

Health Bar Acai Bowl! Delicious

I had to walk on the reef for a few minutes in order to get into the channel.  I received more Hawaiian kisses on my body.  I had to laugh, since it felt like the most fitting way to say “A hui hou” (see you again) to Hawaii.

Kilty drove me back to the Dojo as Lauren Hill’s voice seeped through her speakers.  We said our “see you laters” and parted. 

If you don’t already know, I missed my flight home that day.  I felt that me missing my flight was meant to be.  There were a lot of factors leading up to me missing my flight:  the juicer at the Health Bar breaking down while B-Sauce and I waited for a light snack before I departed, or the cones blocking off two lanes on the H-1, or me getting lost to find the rental car return place.  All of it happened for a reason.  Perhaps I was meant to stay in Hawaii a little bit longer?  Sitting in the airport for close to eight and a half hours, I was able to contemplate my trip to Hawaii this time around.  I reflected on all the people I met, the food I ate, the Aloha spirit I received and gave, and the overall joy I felt being in the land of Hawaii.  I was pretty bummed I was leaving this land, that I wasn’t going to see my friends every day anymore… that Fransauce was no longer going to be in LA when I return.

25 side orders of Garlic Chicken - gone within 30 hours

But I stopped feeling bummed as quickly as I started.  For all I have to do is come to the land of Aloha by perpetuating the Aloha wherever I go.  I have to have the Fransauce factor: Cool, Calm, and Collected, under any situation.  And that bright smile too.

Surfing wise, I learned a lot about paddling, positioning, duck diving, and riding the wave, not the board.  When I paddle for a wave, I have to position myself in the most uncomfortable place on the wave, right where the wave breaks.  In my head, that is most uncomfortable because it is the most consequential, but I have to get over that.  I started to do that half way through the trip, and it was working.  We will see how far I can take this plateau.  

Ala Moana Bowls Kiss <3

I’ve also concluded that in order to reach certain goals in my life, I need to move to Hawaii.  I don’t know how or when this is going to happen, but I would want my family to be raised in the Aloha way, where caring about others and cooperating and giving is championed, not punished.  On top of that, I really don’t see how else I’m going to start getting set waves in Hawaiian waters unless I start living here and going to the same spot every day, all day.  I definitely have to move here. 

Finally, Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono is the Hawaii state motto, which roughly translates to English, “The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness.”  No matter how many highways or condominiums are built in this modern day, the Hawaiian spirit will always be alive and well, perpetuated by the land and the people.  You just have to live the Hawaiian way.

Mahalos Mother Ocean.  Mahalos to all the OG Dojo members and their friends.  And Mahalos to the Land of Hawaii.  A hui hou!!!  

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Diamondhead & Sandy's 062212

0.5 – 1 feet

Warm water

Trade winds

Sunny

Diamondhead <3

After a successful BBQ at the Dojo, I woke up pretty late around 8.  There were people who slept over, still sleeping on the couch.  I took my time doing yoga and rehydrating.  Jillee comes to the living room, looking a bit sluggish, and asks for the time.  She passed out last night around 830 PM.  Fransauce had to work today, so it was going to be a solo session for me.  Fransauce texted me the surf report for Diamondhead.  I guess he looked at the surf before going to work.  It read, “Bruh, here’s ur diamondhead surf report.  1-3 ft face.  Inconsistent sets, winds are light now.  Have a fun surf day.  Wish I could be out there.”

I figure I could go check out Diamondhead and if it didn’t look good, I could go to Kaisers or Kewalos.  I pull up to Diamondhead to a kloudy morning.  The longobarders were getting good waves, and some shortboarders were getting some good rides too.  I made the call to surf here, since it didn’t seem so bad.  I make the trek down the donkey trail.  My feet are now used to the trai, and I made it down in record time.

The Donkey Trail

The reef was exposed by the time I paddled out.  I’ve seen the tide lower here before, so I wasn’t too worried.  The paddle out was smooth.  There were a lot of wahine’s surfing today – from longboarding and shortboarding, girls in cute bikinis, to being covered up from head to hips.  They always have a cute bikini bottom. 

Right off the bat, I got a wave to my self.  It was a small one foot wave, but it felt good to get one under my belt.

My anus felt a small tickling sensation.  I sat in the water, staying away from any of the local boys (there was only one stand out local today) and then another set wave comes my way.  I take it as far as I can and feel super stoked. 

And the anus gets a stronger, tingling sensation now.  I knew this feeling.  I’ve had it before.  I need to poop!!  But man, the waves are good…

I figure, okay, just try not to poop, but clean your butt cheeks when you bottom turn.  Next wave swings in, and I get a nice bottom turn and a top turn.  It’s unlike any top turn I’ve done before – staying low in my stance and keeping control of the board.  I wasn’t riding the board, I was riding the wave.  Stoked about this wave, I start to paddle back out.  But I really need to poop. 

I look around… not too many people… NO!! This is Hawaii.  These are sacred grounds.  This is not El Porto!  Don’t poop in these waters… but thee waves are good, what are you going to do?  The more I wait, the more the turtle popped his head in and out. 

I geet another wave to do a back side turn on.  I couldn’t believe my luck and plight.  I had heaven in hell, all in one.  I was a wave magnet, but I really needed to get out of the water and poop.

I was in the impact zone, and made the call.  I pulled down my boardshorts past my butt hole.  I put both knees to my chest, and let out one, big push.  The shit just flowed out of my ass like a volcano erupting upside down.  If you didn’t know, shit floats.  As a sigh of releft came out I quickly realized there was orange-brown turnds flowering around me like a full blossomed chrysanthemum.  Immediately, I pull my boardshorts back up, hold my breath as not to inhale any water, treat water, get back on my board, and paddle away from the scene of the crime.  I just hoped no one would paddle there. 

And just like that, I felt the waves avoiding me.  The waves started swinging wider from where I sat.  the tide was getting lower and lower, so the waves were getting better.  But it felt like She was avoiding me.  I am so sorry, Mother Ocean.

I paddled in and apologized to Mother Ocean.  There was a TV crew filming a few teens on the beach.  A lifeguard was there too, and I asked him what the TV crew was for.  Turns out these kids are from Ireland, and have come to surf.  The lifeguard laughdd, saying that the kids thought it was a big day in Hawaii.  He asked if I had fun.  I told him I had blast. 

I was surprised the waves were actually good! Just goes to show you have to paddle out to see if the waves are any good.

Sandy’s Session:

Blaine, Jillee, B-Sauce and I eat at W&M Teriyaki Burger, where we scarf down a very tastey burger, an order of fries, and a “root beer float”, B-Sauce style.  This place has been family run for over forty years now, and is definitely a go to spot for a tasty burger.  We four headed to Sandy’s after our meal.

Root Beer Float, B-Sauce Style

It was the perfect beach weather since the sun came out.  Aloha Friday was in full swing.  It was a crowded day at Sandy’s, but it was arguably the best Sandy’s I have seen.  We laid out a beach towel for Jillee, popped open the cooler full of Miller Lites (“blue soda”) and headed into the water.  B-Sauce was feeling the vibe, and slipped into his pidgin.

“Ho brah, choo wanna borrow da fin cuh?” he asked me.

“Uh, yes please,” I answered.

It was about two feet, and super fun!  Even I, a novice body surfer, was able to get on the wave face.

W&M Burger with fries

B-Sauce had two stand-out waves.  One was a right, where he did a body roll on the take off, and took the wave to shore.  Another one as a set wave, where two body boarders were out of position.  The first guy tried to get in but couldn’t, and the same went for the second guy.  B-Sauce was in prime position, and paddled for the wave.  He was high in the lip, and seemed to be stalling.  And then, as he passed my line of sight, he dropped in to the wave super fast and just took off.  He looked like he went warp speed on that wave.   He ended up in the shore pound, smiling from ear to ear.

We laid out on the sand for a while, watching the other body boarders and body surfers.  We would hoot ooh’s and aah’s and whistle for the sets that came through. 

The legendary Taryn came out too!  I have heard stories of this girl and her barrel riding.  She was a bit embarrassed when I told her this.  I think she was being modest, since as soon as she hit the water, she got a nice left, getting barreled.  Man, I sorta came in my boardies seeing that.  Jillee, Blaine, and B-Sauce clowned on me, asking if I needed a moment alone.  She checked her bikini, and headed right ack out to the line up.  She commandeered a yellow body board, and I saw her pull into a nice barrel again!  The tales of the legendary Taryn were true!  I was glad I got to meet her.

We packed up our stuff and head back to the Dojo.  If I pushed it, we could have surfed a third session today, but I felt like we had a complete day already, and no need to push, push, and push. 

Uni (Sea Urchin) Risotto

Da OG members of the Dojo (minus Alex) and I grabbed dinner at Tokkuritei, and some drinks at Uncle Bo’s.  Tokkuri Tei is a Japanese style restaurant that has a huge menu.  We ordered a storm of food and drinks, with one of the highlights being Uni Risotto.  Everything was delicious, and to complete the meal, we got some sushi at the end.  The chef put some lemon zest as a finisher on the sushi, where we got Ahi, Hamachi, catch of the day white fish, Salmon, and Mackerel. 

We stop by South Street Inn for more drinks.  We see the manager outside, and B-Sauce introduces us.  I tell her how I love the Peanut Butter Cup dessert, and she asks if I wanted it.  Being modest, I say no, it's ok.  She looks at me, and says, "No, if you want it, I can make it, don't be shy.  Justin, if your friend wants it, tell him to just say it."  So I said, "Sure, I'll have it."  The kitchen was closed already, but she went to the back, warmed me up a piece, threw some ice cream on top with chocolate syrup, and brought it out for me.  She totally did not have to do this, but you know what?  This is the Aloha Spirit alive and well my friend.  This simple action is exactly what people talk about when they speak of Hawaii.  It’s my last night in Hawaii, and I couldn’t have asked for a more amazing day. 

Sushi

 

Peanut Butter Cup

Mahalos Mother Ocean!

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Cromwell's 062112

1-2+ feet

Warm/cool water

Sunny

Trade winds

Fransauce, pre surf MW3

We surfed Cromwell’s this day.  Cromwell’s is located east of Diamondhead, and is known for a rock you can jump off from into a deep tide pool.  This spot is nextled in between multi million dollar houses.  There is a staircase that leads down to a beach area with exposed dead coral for footing.  There was a tent set up on the coral, and a few more people making their way out to the other parts of the beach, perhaps to lay out, eat, drink or smoke pakalolo. 

There is a lagoon area where there is sand and small fish swimming.  In the middle of the lagoon area, there is a small rock island that one can observe small fish, swimming around in the pool.  A girl in a green bikini top and her boyfriend were on the small island when we paddled out.

Fransauce led the way, since there was a distinct channel that we needed to paddle through.  We had to paddle right beside the rocks, and then straight out into the ocean.  Fransauce told me how in his “waterman” days, he would paddle from here to Diamondhead on a longboard, catch a few waves, and then paddle back or walk back to Cromwell’s.  Going to Diamondhead was easier, he said, since the trade winds would push him to Diamondhead.  It was the paddle back to Cromwell’s that was killer. 

So we are paddling through choppy waters towards the line up.  We paddle out straight, since there are multiple peaks.  Cromwell’s is an open ocean break, where the waves hit a big reef and peel both lefts and rights.  The waves here had a lot of power.  The size was 2 feet+ Hawaiian scale.  The sets were somewhat unpredictable, and cleaned the line up like a steam roller.  The plus side of this spot was that nobody was out.  We had the line up all to ourselves, plus one other dude.  The waves were not “good” but it was nice to finally be isolated from all the people: the Uncles, the Locals, the Boys, the Wahines, all of them.  It was just us and the raw, open ocean. 

I caught half a wave today.  I say only ½ since the wave I actually caught was so unpredictably powerful and strong that I accidently kicked out of the wave.  It was a really nice left, but I was not prepared for how much speed and power was on this wave.  Right when I popped up, my feet felt the G-forces and my board felt like a rocket ship.  Before I knew it, I had kicked out of the wave.

Fransauce was killing it in these conditions.  He caught a handful of waves, taking them far inside.  He took both lefts and rights, but the rights were opening up for him a lot more.  The trade winds made the rights harder to ride since the winds blew at you, and your board would lift up on the take off.

The wipe outs here were pretty forgiving for the power of the waves.  I had a few “bad positioning” wipe outs where I was too deep on the wave, and got pitched over, but the wave didn’t really pound me onto the reef.  I mostly rolled underwater and got let go once the wave passed.

I started working the inside waves more.  I got some quick rides in the first few minutes sitting on the inside.  But the waves just shut down after these few quick rides.  “No more small waves for you, brah,” said the Ocean.

So, I move towards, Fransauce.  Just when I thought the waves shut down, the clean up set comes in.  We both get pounded further and further in.  After about five minutes of being bullied by the Ocean, we call it a day.

Fransauce guides me back to the channel, pointing over a group of people jumping off the rock.  We finally get back to the sandy lagoon, and walk out.

Ono's Hawaiian Seafood - Tako & Ahi Shoyu Poke

Once I look back at the line up, it looks like a far, far away land that I imagined surfing.  It didn’t feel like I was actually there, surfing and eating shit.  It felt mostly like a day dream, where the water was clear blue, the reef stared blankly back at you, and the winds were howling trade winds.

More people were on the beach, planning for a day of fun in the sun.  I had a lot of fun because there was no body at this surf spot today.  It was just the waves, Frsanauce, and myself.  I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect day.

We grab some Ono Hawaiian Seafood for post surf grinds.  This place used to only have two parking spots, but they tore down the Shell station next to it, so that lot is empty and allows for anyone to park there.  They used to only have two or three kinds of poke, but now they have eight kines.  They used to not have a cash register either.  Nor a menu.  And it used to be around $5 for a poke bowl and soda.  Now, it’s kind of popular and people are catching on, and so it’s a few dollars more, but still worth it. 

Shizzle's Sliders

This day was also the Dojo’s BBQ day, hosted by the members of the Dojo, including myself.  We had a wonderful array of food, including Shizzle’s amazing sliders, Seth’s stuffed jalapeno cream cheese crab cakes wrapped in bacon (I failed to secure a photo), lots of beef kalbi and tongue, and B-Sauce’s BBQ chicken, which was hands down the best of the best. 

Shizzles, double fisting, and B-Sauce, trolling

With plenty of beer going around, most people passed out by 900 PM.  Da Boys of the Dojo stayed up, pacing themselves with the beers.  Getting the BBQ pit was an adventure, since the grill’s propane was leaking, we had to wing it out with two small BBQ pits.  I think it worked out perfectly for the whole night. 

And like all great BBQ’s the clean up was most important.  We cleaned up the house as if nothing had ever happened at all.  And shame on those who sand-bagged all that beer!!  What a waste!

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Kewalos 062012

1-2 feet

warm water

Flies

Off shore

Sunny

I woke up at 600 AM to wake up Fransauce.  After a papaya and lychee for breakfast, he drove us first to Diamondhead.  The waves were blown out by the wind.  It was a strong trade wind but there was only one peak working, and that spot was infested by longboarders.  So, we head into Town!

 We go to park in front of a place called Flies, right next to Point Panic, a world famous body surfing spot.  Flies was a wave that broke pretty close to shore, and there were a few surfers out in front.  There was only one body surfer out at Point Panic, and he was taking waves for about 15-20 yards.

Kewalos is a spot accessible by two points: one by jumping off the rocks east into Kewalos Basin, which was where we went two days ago, and another is by climbing down slippery stairs into the water west of Kewalo basin.  Today, we entered through the stairs of Kewalo Basin.  Fransauce made the trek down and then I made my way down.  I slipped on the rocks and my leg got wedged in between the rocks.  Of all places, I slip on the easiest paddle out. 

Kewalos is a left, but there is a right if you’re willing to go over shallow reef.  There was a big tree that marked the take-off spot, and all the locals lined up there.  There were some nice inside waves that others were tearing up. 

There were definite “local boys” out there, and one “uncle.”  These guys always caught the set waves.  They knew exactly how long to wait for the sets, which wave to go for, and how to tear it up.

I didn’t catch one set wave because of these guys.  And truth be told, a surf spot as famous and as good as Kewalos should have a hierarchy like this, where the Uncles and locals get first pick and visitors get the scraps.

All morning, I could feel the energy was a little off with Fransauce.  He was stressing over his Fire Department test on Saturday, and it was pretty obvious his mind was elsewhere.  I appreciate him surfing with me during this time, but he seemed really troubled and unhappy.  Half way through the session, Fransauce tells me he is going in.  He tells me to take my time and that he will be waiting for me at the parking lot where we parked. 

So here I was, at the world famous Kewalos, all by myself.  It was a peaceful session for the most part.  I had a left that I snaked Fransauce on, but he couldn’t make the section so I guess it was ok.  I got to the face and did a small cut back on the white water section ahead of me.

I wish I had gotten one of those sets, but it was impossible to catch a wave here with the local boys in the water.  They must surf Kewalos every day, all day.  Fransauce advised me to be careful if I go right since I will be suffing on shallow reef.  But it seemed that these were the only waves I was allotted by the locals. 

Even when I sat behind the Uncle in the white Hurley rash guard and the local boy with a black shirt, I couldn’t catch any of the sets since they were taking weave #1 and wave #2 of the set.  Since it was a 3 wave set, every body else was left out the back to scratch for the third and final wave. 

I sat next to a surfer who looked like Fransauce.  He had long hair, dark skin, and a huge, bright smile.  He and I split the peak twice on the inside, where I went right and he went left. 

On the first of the rights, I saw a huge warp the wave.  The wave jacks up right there, and I get pitched from the jump.  I can tell the reef is right there, and for some reason, I decide to grab on the rock.  I felt my fingers get grated on the rocks as I held on until the white water washed over.  I felt my feet and knees get dragged on the reef as well.  Well, no time to look at my cuts, but I know I’m cut up, that’s for sure.  I had to paddle towards the Kewalos basin and back out to the line up.

Two cute Japanese girls were surfing too.  They too were locals, and knew all the other locals in the water.  They were no dunsky’s; they were good surfers. 

There was on e dude that I felt did not belong in the water.  He was a white dude, and sat outside the peak.  But he would paddle for some sets that swung wide, and some waves where a guy was already riding  them.  Maybe he was hoping they would fall and he could sneak a snake on them.  Who knows. 

After three hours in the water, I decided to paddle back in.  Fransauce was waiting patiently for me in the lot.  It was another fun session in Hawaii, and I got to surf a world famous spot! 

Kua 'Aina burgers

After surf, we eat at Kua ‘Aina, a burger spot.  I got the pineapple burger with fries, and Fransauce got a cheeseburger with fries.  It’s been months since my last burger, and boy was it tastey.  But, I could feel my stomach telling me, “I don’t like what you just put in here…. You’re gonna pay for this…!”  Whatever, I’m on vacay.

Ok, so not whatever.  I actually made conscious efforts to eat a little more healthy throughout the rest of the day.  I dragged B-Sauce to Ala Moana mall to do some shopping, and we went to Goma Tei, a noodle joint.  He raved about the vegetarian cold noodles.  It was a choice between Korean cold noodles, and Goma Tei, located in the mall, so I made the call that we should just go to Goma Tei.  It was very refreshing, and extremely filling.  You could pour on the sauce, which was sesame and miso base, all over the noodles, or eat them like tsuke-men, where you dip the noodles into the sauce.  That meal was a satisfying meal for any hot summer day.  On top of that, my stomach was happy to welcome some much-needed veggies back inside of me.  Who would have thought vegetables and noodles could fill you up so much?

We go off to a Korean market later to take care of some shopping for the BBQ Thursday night. 

Goma Tei's Vegetarian Cold Noodles

That night, Shizzles came home, so he and I decided to eat at Hale Viet Nam restaurant right up the street.  We had to park in this lot where you pay $0.75 for parking.  A welcomed sight as opposed to paying a minimum $3 in LA. 

Imperial Rolls - YUMMMMM

Pho Ga with Tendon

We ordered fried Imperial rolls, a beer, and Pho.  The fried Imperial rolls were so delicious!!  The taste of the rolls with the sauce and the pickles was amazing.  The Pho had great broth, and warmed my soul.  This isn’t necessarily “Hawaiian” but it was delicious nonetheless.  We sat and ate a total of twenty minutes, and we were out of there.  Straight up grind session!!

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!