Exfoliated 071115

Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Water: Cool/Warm
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Slight on shore

I was psyched to get back in the water since I had not surfed since Tuesday before work. My work stress has been on the decline somewhat. However, I still don't feel safe enough to show up at work at 1000 AM and still feel like I did a full days work.

I had to find free parking up the hill since I woke up late once again. I make my way down to the beach, and see that the sunny skies have brought more and more new faces to 26th Street. The tide is still super low, and I could almost walk out to the line up. I start paddling, and make it out to the line up pretty quickly.

The waves stood up quick and that my board, my beloved Neck Beard, wasn't quite the board for steep take offs. On top of that, the current from the south swell was pulling every one north. I see an endless trail of surfers marching like ants along the coast, carrying their surboards under their arms and walking back to where they paddled out. The only few spots that were working were right in front of the tower, south of Mons Pubis, the Brick house, and allllll the way down to who knows where.

I did my best to maintain my position right in front of the tower. I swam after work on Tuesday, and swam with my dad on Thursday. I fairly confident at my endurance and paddle power, until Mother Ocean just threw a solid south swell in my arrogant face. I was back to being a barney and floundering against the current.

I started to do my "Mexico paddle" and kept up with the current. For Mother Ocean to be moving so much water, there were only a handful of waves. Not too many of them were ride-able, and the ones that were ride-able were drainers. I can see the millions and millions of sand sucking up before crashing into a big foam of white water obliteration.

On a smaller left, I popped up and tried to get to the face. The breaking white water caught my surfboard and flung me forward into the shallows. I went head first onto the sand, and exfoliated my forehead on the left side of my face. 

I must have paddled against the current most of the day. I remember Uncle Miles and Kim paddling out about an hour into my surf session. 

I got out with pretty much no memorable ride today. However, I still had tons of fun fighting the current, watching the merry-go-round of surfers exit the line up, walk around, enter the line up, and drift back down further away. The waves were risky today, but it was classic California conditions. The sun was out, the water was crystal clear, the water was moving, and I ate some shit.

As I walked back on the sand, slightly defeated and dejected but otherwise satisfied with my surf, I see my physical therapist and local surfer, Carlo and his son, Cayden.

"What's up Klaude? You ok?"

"Yea, I hit my face on the sand from a wipe out," I told him.

"OH, you're right, it does look a little red. Did you just do that?"

"Naw, I did it early in the session. Did you surf today?"

"Yea, I did. But it was a lot less consistent earlier than it is now. We're gonna enjoy the beach today!" He looked lovingly down at his son, picking up his tiny sandals as they walked onto the beach. "Don't you have PT today?"

"Yea, I have it at 1030," I told him.

"Tell everyone I said hi!"

"I will," I said, smiling.

At PT, Amanda worked on my neck. She feels that a lot of my shoulder pain comes from my bad neck posture, and so she has me do a lot of stretches for it.

I had to take a nap after surf, PT, a plate full of Hurry Curry, and a beer. I napped for a solid two hours, eyes wide shut. I woke up groggy but felt refreshed and watched the Lakers summer league play.

Cheryl had her second birthday dinner planned this night, so I went to celebrate. We ate at Gracias Madre, where Silverton (her hubby) and I laughed up a storm. I set my three drink limit earlier in order to surf tomorrow, and stuck by it.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!