Ten Waves 070415

Surf Report: 2-3 feet and rippable
Water: Warm
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Marginal

Happy Fourth of July! Fucking national holidays man... makes everyone come out. Surf schools, beach bums, wannabe beach bums, wahine's in teenie bikini's... everyone. I couldn't find parking at the lots so I made the OG move and parked up the hill. I finally secured a spot and skipped down the hill. The waves looked fun, and so I was hoping to score some waves finally.

I know I shouldn't compare myself to others, but I want to surf better, and so I am trying to steal qualities that I don't have with what other, better surfers do have. One that I have observed is the wave count of Roy and Ross. They always seem to get a 2:1 ratio of waves compared to the average surfer at 26th Street. So, I figured if I employ a more aggressive tactic of catching more quality waves, then I'll get closer to becoming a better surfer - a better version of myself.

So, I set out a goal: 10 quality waves. Not 10 waves, but 10 quality waves where I at least get a pump or two in, and an attempt of a maneuver.

I started to catch waves at my usual spot south of the tower. I would get a few pumps in, then bottom turn up and try a floater front side. Then I would go for some backside floaters. I would catch two close outs, and not count them. I got to five quality waves fairly quickly, and then his a road block.

I waded in the water, and watched others catch waves. All the locals were out: Bruce, Glen, Stocky Jon, Vietnam Vet Mike, Steve-O and Paul. A set wave approaches, and Bruce calls me out to get on it. "GO KLAUDE GOOOOO!"

I dig deep and paddle at a steep angle. It was the set of the day by all means. I pop up and almost lose my balance. I could feel the board almost slide out on the rail, but it catches at the bottom, and I gather my feet. I go straight into a bottom turn, putting all my weight on my right foot, and getting to the top. I jam all my weight back to my heels, and stick both of my arms into the wave face. The wave dies out, and my turn never felt completed. I count that as Quality Wave #6.

I catch three more quality waves, and I am psyched. It's not just my mind set that is changing today's session. The waves are actually good! I try for my tenth quality wave, and it doesn't come.

Be patient KK, be patient.

A left pops up. It looks like nothing, but I make it into something. I pump once and float it. I come unstuck and fall. Quality Wave #10, goal achieved.

I wasn't done though. The waves are too fun and I have free parking! I keep count with the "Quality Wave" mindset and catch five more quality rides. It was a good day to be in the water, and I felt rejuvenated, re-energized, and re-stoked. I felt like a surfer once more.

Matt and Bri tell me that there are good waves coming through San O, but the swell looks like it is dying. Not only that, but by noon the winds are blowing out the place.

I go to Santouka with my friend Stan. We talk it up for a good hour or so, and then head back to my place to talk more about drive, work ethic, and Lakers. I meet up my parents and other parents, the Morimotos, and gorge on more food. It's July 4th, but I don't feel like doing anything. I call it a night at 1000 PM, when most of my peers and neighbors are shooting fireworks into the night sky. I doze off into the abyss of stoke in hopes to score more waves tomorrow. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean!