Surf Report: 4-5 foot close outs
Water: warm
Winds: on shore
Atmosphere: Sunny
Work
has been busy as fuck... I couldn't surf for a while. I swim with my
dad on Thursday nights, coach on Friday, and then had a basketball early
at 900 AM in Long Beach Saturday morning. We kicked butt, but didn't
finish strong. I got on the kids butts about finishing strong, even if
we were up by 15 points. One of the parents said, "Oh Coach, c'mon!"
with a wry smile. I told her we can't finish like this.
After
my post-game speech, I headed straight to work. After a solid four
hours of work, I came home, and cuddled with Kitty. I closed my eyes and
rested... I don't know for how long, but when I opened my eyes, I
cracked open a cold beer, grabbed my ukulele, and headed outside to
play. I jammed a little bit, contemplating on what to do. I was invited
to go to a party for my physical therapists' ten year anniversary, which
was in El Segundo. I also had been invited to go to Khang and Dais's
birthday bash later that night. I sipped my beer, and played songs from
memory...
I should just go, I said aloud.
I cleaned up all my stuff, took Kitty out, and threw on some clothes.
During my drive to my PT's party, my iPhone ran on random. Every other song played Hawaiian music... weird.
When
I arrive, the whole party is a motherfuckin Luau. Hawaiian music
playing by a tanned Hawaiian man and his wife who sang like an angel
while jamming on ukulele. The therapists that take care of me all give
me hugs to welcome me.
"Grab some food! Have something to drink!" said the aids. I politely obliged.
I
talk to an older couple standing next to me. They're both from Kauai. I
compliment the lady on her dress. She says it's from Kauai also, along
with her jewelry. I tell them how my heroes, Andy Irons and Sion
Milosky.
"Oh, SI?? You know about him too?" said the older man, Kenny.
"Yea, he's one of my biggest heroes," I explained.
The
dancing starts, from menehune's to young adult groups, they all dance
well. Patty Brown, the head hancho Physical Therapist, joins the dance
group. She is Kyle's mom, and is an amazing therapist. She attracts a
lot of great people around her.
I meet more locals
from 26th Street that are in attendance. Kurt and his wife Lori, Uncle
Miles (Patty's brother), Uncle Miles' brother, and some other faces that
I always see in the water were here. start dancing to the tunes that
they are playing, and Kurt and Lori join in too.
I
finally meet the guitarist, Kimo, and his wife. I've been meaning to
meet him since everyone at 26th Street says I have to meet him and jam
with him.
"Brah, all we do is just JAM. We just love to play," he says with a bright smile and sparkling brown eyes.
"That's
all I want to do!" I tell him. We embrace in a hug only shared by my
closest of friends. It's like I met an old friend whom I haven't seen in
a long time.
Khang and Dais's birthday bash... I get
wasted. I drive home, drunk as fuck. I promise that I will never do that
again. I can't believe I allowed myself to drive home that night...
I
wake up, super late and hung over. I have to go back to sleep, but it's
already 800 AM. So much for dawn patrol. E had texted me last night... I
text her back in the morning.
I get out of bed
around 900 AM and start getting ready. Mel is home, and I can hear
unfamiliar footsteps in the house. Must be Ken.
Mel invites me to a quick breakfast at Superba down the street. I say let's go, and on the way out, I see Ken's car being towed.
"Ken, your car's being towed. KEN! YOUR CAR! IS BEING TOWED!!!"
Mel and I rush outside.
Turns
out his bank hasn't been getting payments and so the Repossession guys
are legally towing his car. Ken is obviously perturbed and disturbed. We
make phone calls, but our hands are tied. Mel has lost her keys to her
car, so I drive them to the nearest rent-a-car spot.
As devil's advocate, I say to myself, "Wow, glad I drove home drunk! Or else those two would have been really fucked."
Just kidding. Uber it next time, KK. Or else you're gonna do some real damage.
I
get home to an empty house still reminiscing what's happened in the
last 24 hours... I have a game to coach again... I haven't eaten
anything yet... I should go eat... surf for thirty minutes, and then go
to the game.
I stop by Metro and eat a light breakfast
with some coffee. I meet a friend, Ricky, from my childhood and we chat
for about an hour. I bid him farewell after some good conversation over
some good coffee, and head out to the beach.
The
waves... SUCK. They are closing out. I can see the whole coastline is
closing out. Must have been good earlier... Oh well. It's sunny, let's
go.
I find a free parking spot and get changed
quickly. Thirty minute heat starts now! I paddle out after some light
stretching and see a pair of guys paddle out too. One of them is on a
fat NSP. Another is on a green single fin fun board.
The
guy on the NSP is struggling to get out. The inside is gnarly, but not a
problem if you know how to duck-dive. I get pounded a few times but
make it out with ease.
I go for one wave, which pitches me and sends me to the bottom.
I
go for another wave, which knocks my feet off my board as I pop up. I
see the guy on the NSP on the shoulder, sitting. I get gobbled up by the
wave, and just hold my breath until the wave lets me go.
When I resurface, I see NSP guy next to me.
"What happened?" I ask.
"I got pulled in by the wave," he replies.
I paddle away since there are more sets approaching.
"Your friend shouldn't be out here," I tell single fin funboard guy. "He can get hurt, or he might hurt someone else too."
"Yea, well, he'll figure it out."
That's not the fucking point, dumbass.
I take another wave, which gobbles me up. Time's up. Paddle back in, and head to the game.
I get changed and a girl in Volkswagen with Minnesota plates pulls up next to me.
"Are you leaving?" she asks.
"Yea, as soon as I get changed, I'm outta here."
She
pulls over and starts texting furiously. Her boytoy pulls up and she
says that he should meet her down over here. He obliges.
I
get to the game on time, and we kick ass again. I'm proud of my boys.
But, they finish weak once again... I pull the two starters out of the
line up with one minute to go and lecture them about finishing strong on
any game. I hope it strikes a chord with them....
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
No comments:
Post a Comment