I Knew You'd Show Up 092614

Surf: 3-4 feet
Atmosphere: Sunny
Water: Warm
Winds: light onshore winds

"I knew you'd show up, even if you didn't answer my text," says Matt, smiling at me in the water. We paddle for an outside set.

I had a long day Thursday. I get home late... and Mel invites me to join our other roommate, Eric, for a drink at Wurstkuche. Her boss/co-worker Ken meets us up while we are having drinks. Watching their interaction, especially when they hug to say good-bye, I can tell that they have feelings for each other....

Matt sends a group text: "Khang, we missed your smooth buttocks this morning. Any of you lovebirds paddling out tomorrow?" I don't reply. 

I wake up in a haze of beer. Crap. I'm late. It's the first swell of the Autumn season. I gotta get out.

I throw my stuff into my car and head to the beach. I can't miss this. Not the first swell of the season. Not when Matt, my goofy-footed counterpart, is out there.

Did I bring a towel? I don't remember...

I look back at my gear... no towel. Well, I can't turn back now. I don't like turning back on the path that I've already tread on, because to me, it symbolizes the inability to let go of the past. So, I trek forward, towel-less.

I look at my springsuit, and throw it to the side. OH WELL. Can't wear this today. How am I going to change? I will have to figure that out later.

"Trunkin it!" says Randy to me, smiling.

"Haha yea, I don't have a choice today. I don't have a towel," I tell him. He smiles at me and I smile back. It feels like Randy has changed since the last time I met him. He seems more... mellow? Happy? Perhaps grounded? I don't know. I always got the impression from Matt that Randy was an uptight control freak, but ever since their mother passing, his demeanor has changed.

"Going for it!" says Matt. He's wearing his holy wetsuit.

"Naw, I don't have a choice. I forgot my towel. I'm gonna have to change later. Haven't figured that one out yet." We both laugh.

Matt and I manhug in the water. He's riding the Becker. It looks HUGE under him. But hey, he's catching tons of waves. However, he stalls on the top turns.

"That boards waaaay too big for you bro!" I tell him.

It's a good sized day, and I get pounded a lot. I get some good rides, look back, and see sets rolling in still. It finally feels like Autumn!! Except the water. Water still feels like summer.

Matt says he's going to change boards right when I was about to leave, so I wait for him to come back. We catch a few more waves before I leave for work. I can't believe how many waves we caught between the two of us.

Work work. It's been super hectic lately. I'm surfing lots more in order to keep myself sane. However, I'm trying not to push myself too much either. Last time I pushed myself too much, I ended surfing sloppy and getting injured. So, stay smart KK. Learn from your past mistakes.

I'm standing in the lot. There are two "groms" that just arrived. They must have graduated high school already, but aren't in college. They talk about how one of their mom is communicating well with him, and how he really appreciates that. I decide to just get naked by the meter, behind the car, and wipe myself down with my t-shirt. I throw on my underwear, and get changed quickly. Hopefully people saw.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!