Never a Bad Day 092514

Surf Report: 2-3 feet and building
Water: Warm
Winds: Light offshore
Atmosphere: Sunny

I received a group text about paddling out tomorrow. I was still sore from my first Jiu-Jitsu class on Tuesday, so I was thinking of not going. However, Dais answered and so did Khang, so I was like what the hell... let's paddle out.

I woke up nice and early, still sore. However, I can't back out now... the boys are gonna be out! I have to paddle out. So, I load up my car and take off.

The parking lot is starting to empty out from the Grom Patrol. I can see there are small waves rolling in from the parking lot. I only bring one board now... the Neck Beard. I know it's small, so I only bring my "under five foot" board. The waves look playful and fun, so I'm looking forward to this session with da boys.

I finally get to see Matt! It feels like forever and a day since I've seen his face. I give him a big man hug.

Waves just seem to come my way today... I'm not sure if Matt's out of rhythm or anything, but he is struggling to catch waves. The Neck Beard feels good under my feet as I pump down rights, connecting the dots on mushy waves.

"There's Dais!" says Matt.

I look around and see an attractive man with his long hair waving us down. I can see from this distance.... the Average Joe.

Matt continues to struggle, and I continue to catch waves. Dais starts catching waves right off the bat. It's pretty amazing how many waves he catches during the session.

Still, where is Khang?

Dais and I swap boards. I've always wanted to try the Average Joe. She's my unicorn for the moment. Immediately after switching boards, I paddle for a wave, and get in early. The board just glides over the sections, and I'm pumping on the open face. I catch the wave all the way to shore, and look back. Wow. Just.

WOW.

I catch three more waves, all the same way. Paddle, drop in, pump early, ride over the flat section, get to the open face, and keep pumping your heart out.

"Never a bad day on the Joe!" Dais says.

It's so good, I don't want to leave. Plus, where the fuck is Khang?? Is he going to come?

I ask a guy what it is. "It's about 9:30," he tells me.

Holy crap, late for work. I gotta go. I get my last wave in, wave good-bye to da boys, and head for the parking lots.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!