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Water: Warm
Atmosphere: somewhat sunny
Winds: Minimal
Bri... how is she on the beach before me, every time?
As I watched the only girl who can surf in the line up take a left, I see her do a solid cut back, re-entry, and ride out the white wash.
I whistle and wave.
It's super crowded today... Weekend warriors are out this time. The days have been blurring and I forget at what day is what. I have no sense of the date - just the time. And right now, it's time to surf.
The crowd is mellow. The waves aren't as gnarly as the past two days, but there are still some rides to have. I'm wondering about the day's events lined up for the weekend.
I am supposed to go to my friend Meagan and Brian's wedding in Santa Barbara. I had invited Elyce to it a while back. I asked her to still join me because.... well I don't know. I know Meagan doesn't want to have less people than expected to show up to the wedding, but of all people, she would understand. I've known Meagan since we were in orientation at UCLA. She just so happened to be next door to me at orientation, and my friend and I were talking "loudly" at night. So, she came outside to join us. She and I have been friends since that time.
Anyway, Elyce was coming. I figured that this will be healing time for me. This weekend together with a girl who shattered my heart will force me to deal with uneasy and uncomfortable feelings. It will help ease the pain in quicker. I will be free.
Also, I had planned to visit Patricio, my ex-roommate, at his house in Oxnard. He was stoked to hear that I would visit. Little did he know that I remembered it was his birthday on the 6th of October. I bought him Clay Marzo Future Fins set for his new board. I didn't know for sure if he had Future Fins on the Average Joe he bought, but I just had a feeling....
I have been working extra hard to make this weekend trip happen by busting my ass off to finish clients' returns. However, our most complicated clients sent in all of their information on Friday, and I felt terrible not putting in time this weekend. So, I took work home so I could put in work Friday night in an effort to mitigate my bosses' worries of not finishing on time. I hope that this extra work feeds into something positive this weekend.
I catch myself and try not to think about the future too much. I have to be in the moment. That is my strength! I have to just enjoy the moment. I focus on the surf, not on the work that has to be done, or the wedding, or the person accompanying me on this journey. I focus on catching the waves. I focus on what makes me happy - spending time in the water with my friends that I call family.
Bri, as always, is killing it. I don't know what it is, but her surf improves so quickly. I guess when you surf with Matt all the time, dawn-patrolling, and putting the time in to surf different spots, you're bound to get good. She gets long rides on her board, all the way to the beach. Maybe a smaller board soon? She can definitely handle it in time.
Tom paddles out. He's been MIA as always, so he is out of shape. He is still getting good rides today, and drifts with the current.
Calvin was out today too! Wow, how crazy is that? I haven't seen him in months time. We catch up somewhat, since I get to see his facebook feed with his new girlfriend and their travels.
"What are you gonna do about your job?" I ask. He works at Toyota, and Toyota is moving their headquarters to Texas now.
"I don't know man, I was going to move, but now I don't. I mean, I have a girl over here now..." he says.
I didn't get any turns this day, but the waves were playful. I remember just getting a lot of fun rides and being surrounded by good vibes. This surf session set me up for a great day ahead for me.
"I surf because, I'm always a better person when I come in." - Andy Irons
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!
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