Surf: 2-3 feet
Atmosphere: Overcast
Water: Warm
Winds: Slight on shore
Matt's on NG Duty this weekend... two weekends in a row to be exact. So, Bri paddles out with me to fill the void.
For the first hour, I can't catch a wave. I'm watching other people surf. I'm watching Bri catch wave after wave, and heads snapping back and forth watching her stylish figure take waves all the way to shore.
The CROWDS. What the hell happened to 26th Street? I swear, everyone that is fed up with El Porto is starting to come down here, and they are carrying the El Porto habits with them! Dropping in on people, back-paddling... this is not that kind of place! The weekend is just way out of control.
Tom shows up, and we catch up. He has been sporadically in and out of surf. He points towards the brick house. "Man, those look like something you should be on!"
He's right. The rights are rolling in over there, and it seems like the crowd has thinned out. I make my way over there without Bri. I just move in silence, edging closer and closer.
As a set swings wide, I catch it. I start pumping, doing two speed checks and then kicking out. I paddle back out to the same spot, and the same thing happens. Pump, pump, pump, speed check, pump, kick out.
There's a red head who's watching me, but he's new here. He doesn't know how the brick house works. I keep catching waves under him, while he paddles for the close outs. I'm gaining my Local Card notches.
Tom calls me into a wave. It's a dream of a right, and I get to pump it from the brick house all the way to the Mons.
Bri sees that I'm catching more waves, so she sits next to me too. We share waves the rest of the session till we are both tired.
I had to run after my surf session. I had to rush to work, get some shit done, drive to Long Beach, coach a basketball game, then drive back here to attend my nephew's birthday party. At the end of the day, I was four beers deep and ready to sleep. It's ok if I don't surf tomorrow... I've had my fill.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
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